There are many different foliage that you can use to create a fresh holiday wreath for you door that can be found in your yard. You can use anything from evergreen foliage to fresh herbs to make a one of a kind wreath. All you will need is a few supplies and these step by step instructions to get started.

Materials:

foliage
wreath base (wood, wire or grapevine)
twine or green florist wire
pruners
gloves
berries, twigs, pine-cones, ribbons, ornaments (optional)

Directions:

Step 1:

Gather your foliage and any other optional accents that you would like to add to your wreath. There are many evergreens that work well for a holiday wreath. You can choose to vary contrasting colors and styles of foliage or you can make your wreath out of one type of foliage. This is your creation so choose what you like. Here are some types of plants that work well for making wreaths: holly, cedar, yew, pine, boxwood, laurel, camellia, fir, cypress and magnolia. For a beautifully fragrant wreath, try  adding some fresh herbs such as peppermint, spearmint, sage, oregano, thyme, rosemary, lavender, dill, or basil.

Step 2:

Choose a firm branch with a thick stem that will not easily bend to start. Then add other varieties of cuttings on top and gather the bunch in your hand and snip off any long stems. Using your twine or florist wire, secure the first bunch onto your wreath base.

Step 3:

Gather a second bunch of foliage and lay it overlapping the twine or wire that you secured the first bunch to the base with and secure the second bunch as you did the first. Continue adding bunches of foliage in this manner all the way around your wreath base.

Step 4:

By gently lifting un the foliage of the first bunch, you will be able to tuck the stems of the final bunch under and secure it to the base.

Step 5:

Now is the time to add any extra greens in order to even out your wreath and add any embellishments that you like. You can use anything to add a like extra contrast to your wreath such as pine-cones, berries, ribbons or ornaments by attaching them with some florist wire.

Step 6:

Your fresh holiday wreath is done! It’s time to hang and enjoy it throughout the holiday season.

The freshest Christmas tree that you will ever enjoy is one that is still living. It can be a wonderful family tradition to purchase a living tree to appreciate over the holidays and then plant it into your landscape where you can admire it and recall all the wonderful memories associated with it for years to come. Caring for a living Christmas tree is fairly easy and only take a little extra care to ensure that it survives long enough to be planted in the yard. In this article, you will learn exactly what it takes to care for your living Christmas tree.

Step 1: Picking out a tree

Any evergreen from your local nursery will work for a living Christmas tree. It can even be a shrub or bush instead of an actual tree but whatever you choose make sure that it will do well once transplanted into your yard. Pick a tree that  is a size and shape that will suit yours needs. Living trees can only be kept indoors for approximately 10 days so take that into consideration before purchasing your tree. If your tree doesn’t come in a plastic bucket, you will want to place it is some kind of container like a large galvanized tub, plastic bucket or other watertight container. This will protect the roots as well as your floors.

Step 2: Acclimate to the indoors

Gradually introduce your tree to the indoors by putting it into a unheated garage or porch for 3-4 days. During this phase, make sure to check your living Christmas tree for critters and insect egg masses. You want to get rid of any unwanted creatures before you bring your tree into your clean, pest-free home. You can also use an antidessicant or antiwilt product on your tree at this time to reduce needle and moisture loss.

Step 3: Water is essential

Before you move your living Christmas tree indoors, make sure that you water it thoroughly. Moisten the soil completely and make sure that you keep the soil moist the entire time the plant is keep indoors. One way to help your tree retain moisture is to fill in the gaps around the root ball and the sides of your container with mulch. Make sure not to over water. You don’t want your soil to be soggy because that can lead to root damage. Also never add fertilizers or nutrients because this can initiate growth which is not what you want from your dormant tree.

Step 4: Set up, decorate & enjoy

Once your tree has had at least 3 days conditioning in the garage or porch, it is time to place it in your home. Place your living Christmas tree in the coolest location that you can preferably away from any heating sources and out of direct sunlight. Once your tree is in place, it’s time to decorate. Avoid using heat producing lights on your living Christmas tree. Try LED lights instead. They don’t produce heat and they are also energy efficient and will save you money on your power bill. Enjoy your living Christmas tree indoors for 7-10 days!

Step 5: Transplant into the yard

After 7-10 days of festivities, it’s time to move your living Christmas tree back outside by reacclimatizing it to the outdoor temperatures. Put your tree back into an unheated garage or porch for another 3-4 days. Then it is time to transplant your living Christmas tree into your landscape. If you live in a climate where the soil freezes, then you should have prepared a planting hole before the frost. If you are unable to transplant the tree immediately, then you can place your living Christmas tree in a sheltered area with the root ball mulched with a thick layer of leaves or other compost for protection. Once you have transplanted your tree into your landscape, you will have a beautiful living reminder of the joyful memories from the holiday season.

There are many spring flowering bulbs that can be forced into blooming during the winter to warm your home up on chilly days. There are two types of bulbs that can be forced into blooming. One group requires chilling while the other requires much less effort. In this article, you will learn both methods on how to force your spring flowering bulbs to bloom in the dead of winter.

Method 1: No chilling required

These are some of the types of bulbs that can be forced without a chilling process: Amaryllis, Paper-White Narcissus, Freesias, Calla Lilies, Autumn Crocus, Lily of the Valley, Dutch Iris, Bluebells & Fairy Lilies.

Step 1: Pot bulbs

You can use either potting soil or water. If you use water, place bulbs so that they are not touching and fill with pebbles so that the necks of the bulbs stick out about 1/2″ above the surface of your pebbles. Fill with water to cover the bottom 1/3 of the bulbs.

Step 2: Start flowering process

Place your pots in a cool (40-55 degrees F) location that receives indirect light for 2 weeks until you have a good 2-3 inches of top growth then move to a warm, bright location. Your bulbs should bloom in about 4 weeks.

Method 2: Chilling period required

Most bulbs required a chilling period in order to be forced into blooming. You can reference how much chilling time is required by checking the label on the bulbs when you buy them. Here are some popular types of bulbs that require pre-chilling: Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils & Crocuses.

Step 1: Pot bulbs

Shallow pots or bulb pans work best for forcing but you can use any container that you wish as long as it has adequate drainage. Fill the pot 3/4 full with potting mix preferably peat based for better moisture retention. Then pack as many bulbs as can fit and cover them with about 1″ of more potting mix.

Step 2: Chill bulbs

The appropriate temperature for the chilling period is about 35-45 degrees F. Depending on where you live you can store your chilling bulbs outdoors, in an unheated basement, crawlspace or attic, partially heated garage, or refrigerator. The length of time required for the chilling period depends on the variety of bulb. Most bulbs require between 12-18 weeks. Check the package for required chilling time when you purchase your bulbs. It is better to leave them chilling for more time than less, if they aren’t allowed to chill for long enough the bloom may not develop fully. Water occasionally to prevent the bulbs from drying out.

Step 3: Bring bulbs out

Once the chilling period is complete it is time to move your bulbs into a warm location inside your house with indirect sunlight. When top growth is about 4-5″ tall, it’s time to move your bulbs into some direct sunlight to encourage budding. Then when you start to see some color in the buds, your plants should be moved back into indirect sunlight to see the best results from your blooms.

For more information on bulbs, check out our article Tips for Planting Perennial Bulbs.

Winter is fast approaching and with it cold weather, snow, freezing rain and all the other winter hazards that can wreak havoc on your plants. In this article, you will find several tips to help you protect your plants from winter’s woes. With our help, your garden will be safeguarded from Jack Frost and all his mischief.

1. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch

If you only do one thing to defend your plants against cold temperatures, spread a layer of mulch around your plants at least 3 to 4 inches thick. Pine needles, straw, leaves, and shredded bark all make good ground cover. Straw provides the best insulation because it is hollow.

2. Keep the rodents out

To prevent rodents from nesting in your soil, wait to mulch until the ground freezes but before the first snow fall of the season. Mulching too early will give rodents a warm place to nest and fest on your vulnerable plants.

3. Cut back the dead

After the first frost of the season, cut back any dead, dry stems from perennials to soil level to prevent pest and diseases from taking hold. Also remove any diseased foliage from your evergreens and discard all diseased plant matter in the trash.

4. Bring the pots inside

Bring your potted plants into a garage, sun room, greenhouse or shed. Although they might not get enough sun to look their best, storing your potted plants inside will guarantee that they will survive the harsh cold of winter.

5. Protect the young

Newly planted trees are especially vulnerable to the winter sun scalding their tender bark. Protect these saplings by wrapping their thunks with a commercial tree wrapping tape or other tree-guard product from your local garden center. Also remember to mulch around the base of the young trees.

6. Block the wind

Shelter your evergreens from biting winter winds by building a windbreak. On the north and west sides of your plants, place posts and wrap them with burlap or shade cloth to create a barrier from cold seasonal wind.

7. Water before the freeze

Even in the winter, your evergreens still need water. Evergreens continue to lose water all winter long. Keep watering your evergreens whenever the temperature is above freezing to prevent them from drying out.

Seeds are easy to store and can be used as a healthy snack or to plant for the next season.

Below are some helpful tips for removing and cleaning your pumpkin seeds. Also, there is an easy recipe for making Roasted Pumpkin Seeds.

Removing Pulp From Seeds

1. Scrape all pulp and seeds out of pumpkin once it has been opened.
2. Put all seeds and pulp into strainer under running water.
3. Remove the seeds by picking them from the pulp.
4. Rinse the pulp off of the seed in the running water.
5. Collect clean seeds in a bowl.

Now you are ready to dry your seeds for next year’s crop. Skip the next step to roast them as a healthy snack.

Drying and Storing

1. Take clean seeds and spread them flat over a screen. This will allow air to ventilate them from each side.
2. Store the screen in a cool, dry area for a week.
3. After seeds are thoroughly dry, they can be placed in an envelope and stored away from sunlight. Another way to store them is to collect the packets of silica gel from new shoes or purses and put them in a jar with the seeds. This will keep the seeds from retaining moisture and can help them last for several years.

Making a Healthy Snack

If you don’t want to save your pumpkin seeds for planting next year’s crop, you can always use them to prepare a nutritious snack. Don’t just toss your pumpkin seeds this year. Below is an easy recipe for creating a tasty toasted snack that the whole family will enjoy.

Recipe for Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour

Ingredients:

- Pumpkin seeds
- Cooking spray, olive oil or butter
- Salt
- Aluminum foil

Preparation:
Place your cleaned pumpkin seeds into a large pot of salted water and boil for 10 minutes. Drain seeds in colander and spread them out on a cookie sheet to dry overnight. (Optional- if you don’t want to wait for your seeds to dry overnight, you can speed the process along by using a hair dryer)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Toss your dry pumpkins seed in olive oil or butter or spray them with cooking spray. Whichever method you prefer, just make sure to get a good coating on all your seeds so that your seasoning will stick. Spread out the now coated seeds onto a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Sprinkle your pumpkin seeds with salt, seasoning salt, garlic powder, onion powder or one or more of your other favorite seasonings.

Place into your preheated oven and bake for approximately 1 hour tossing the pumpkin seeds every 10-15 minutes until they are golden brown. Allow to cool before eating. Roasted pumpkin seeds can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container or zip-lock bag for 3 months or in the refrigerator for up to 1 year. Enjoy!

Whether it is carved into a jack o’lantern, incorporated in a centerpiece, baked into pies, or transformed into a carriage, pumpkins are the premier vegetable of fall.

When growing the perfect pumpkin, there are a few details to keep in mind. Here are some helpful tips for a great pumpkin harvest.

On the Vine

Pumpkins use the sunlight to ripen. Be sure to cut back any leaves or foliage that have obscured your pumpkin.

The typical color of a pumpkin ranges from green to yellow to orange, As it sits on the vine, the pumpkin develops in color. Once the vine is cut, the color will stay the same. Wait until you see the color you want before harvesting.

Some people prefer to let their pumpkins stay in the garden until the vine naturally recedes and are easily picked. However, when cutting the pumpkin from the vine, check for readiness. The skin will be hard like a shell and a fingernail cannot cut through the pumpkin’s skin. Also, the vine will start to dry up and crack.

Handling the Pumpkin

Once the pumpkin has reached the desired color and size, it will be time to cut from the vine.  After making your choice, use a sharp knife and cut the vine about four inches above the pumpkin to leave a small stem for handling. Use gloves to protect your hands from the stem because it can be prickly.

Pumpkins can bruise easily so handle it gently. When carrying, hold the pumpkin’s body as the stem is not strong enough to support the full weight and may break.

After the Harvest

Deciding what to do with a pumpkin will guide you in your next step.

To use your pumpkin for cooking or as decoration, you can use it immediately. Open it by cutting it or removing the top. The seeds will need to be scooped out and can be saved for planting or roasting. The pumpkin is then ready to be carved as a jack o’lantern or baked into a pie.

Storing the Pumpkin

Some pumpkins are stored for future use. Before storing, a pumpkin’s skin must be cured to allow it to harden and create a moisture barrier. This will help it stay ripe and be stored longer. About 10 days exposure in the sun will cure the skin sufficiently. To store, find a location that stays around 50 degrees. Store them separately to avoid bruising. Remove any pumpkins that appear to be decaying, this will keep the other pumpkins healthy. Leftover foliage and vines can be composted.

But what are aphids? Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that can reproduce so rapidly, you can have an infestation on your hands within a few weeks.
They can be green, black, brown, yellow, or pink and feed by sucking the sap from plants. When doing so, they secrete a substance called honeydew which is sticky and sweet. This attracts ants and can also result in black fungus.
All in all, aphids can spell disaster to your hard work. There are many ways to save your garden, including pesticides. But we offer some natural, creative solutions to rid your garden from these destructive little insects.

Inspection-

Before utilizing any of the methods described below, inspect your garden well to locate the areas infested by aphids. Cut away foliage that has been colonized. For areas with a few aphids, use a strong spray of water to blast the aphids away. Once dislodged from the plant, most aphids are unable to come back.

Plant Extract Insecticide-

Eco-friendly and effective, the use of an insecticide can control the population of aphids in your garden. Commonly used extracts are Neem (a tree from the mahogany family) and Lantana (commonly known as verbena). These extracts repel aphids but are not harmful towards other insects in your garden such as ladybirds and bees.

Nontoxic Pesticide-

Mix 1 cup vegetable oil and 1 tbsp. liquid dish soap. Dilute by adding 1.5 tsp. per cup of warm water. Put this in a hand held spray bottle and use in the areas of your garden infested by aphids. This mixture causes aphids to dehydrate and is safe for vegetable gardens. Be sure to check under the leaves and any new growth for these little pests.

Diatomaceous Earth-

This powder can be sprinkled around your garden and plants and is safe for people and animals. Use food grade Diatomaceous Earth only.

Yellow Traps-

Take double sided tape or another sticky substance to a yellow piece of paper or poster board. Place pieces near infested plants to trap aphids. Another trap is to take a yellow glass or cup and fill with water and a few drops of liquid soap. Place near the infected plants to draw aphids away and drown them.

Biological Control-

Bugs such as Ladybirds (more commonly referred to as Ladybugs) or Lacewings are natural predators of aphids. Sold at your local gardening store or online, the larvae can be placed near the infestation and will feed on the aphids. Help attract Ladybirds to your garden by setting up a Ladybug house. These will help control the aphids population.
Aphids also are repelled by the smell of garlic, catnip and mint. These plants can be added near infestations either directly in the soil or in containers. Their odor will drive away the pests.